Triplett Sniff-It – PN: 9602 - Manual (Page 2)

Specifications
Range: 30 to 600 volts AC, 60Hz
Indicators: Audible beeper and flashing red LED
Battery: 2 AAA
Body Size: 6.25” (L) x .5” (W) x 1” (H)
Weight: Approx. 1.6 oz.
PN: 9602
Made in China
Note: Fluorescent lights emit a lot of electrostatic fields that the Sniff-It will
detect. This is because the bulb is often operating at hundreds or
thousands of volts (generated by the light's ballast transformer). Do
not confuse the pickup from a fluorescent light with the voltage you
are testing for. It may help to turn the fluorescent light off while
performing tests.
Checking Telephone and Cablevison Wires for Unexpected Voltage
Telephone and cablevision wires normally do not have dangerous
voltages on them. However, under certain circumstances, hazardous
voltages may appear on the wires, even though the telephone or cablevision
works correctly. The voltages are sometimes called "strays", "leakage", or
"power influence". At other times, an actual short, or "line cross" can occur
between a telephone or cablevision wire, and an AC power wire.
When telephone and cablevision wires are connected to equipment, the
stray voltages are generally not a problem. But when handling the
connectors while connecting or disconnecting the wires, an unexpected
voltage may cause an electrical shock.
Test the Sniff-It on a known AC voltage source (like a fluorescent light or
an outlet), to make sure it detects the voltage. Now place the tip of the
Sniff-It against the telephone or cablevision wire or connector. If it begins
beeping and flashing, AC voltage is present. Use caution. A shock
hazard may be present.
Note: Many stray voltages "collapse" when they are connected to a load, rendering
them harmless. The Sniff-It does not load the voltage, so it cannot determine
if an actual shock hazard is present. However, if the Sniff-It detects AC voltage,
use caution until the degree of the hazard is determined.
Mobile Home Safety
Mobile homes are sometimes built with metal frames and aluminum siding.
This sometimes leads to an electrical shock hazard. If the frame is not
properly grounded, a surprisingly common occurrence, it can become
"live" with hazardous voltage. The occupants of the mobile home may
be shocked when entering or leaving the home, but are relatively safe
from shock hazard once inside.
An accidental short in the home's electrical system can make the frame
"live". One known cause is a defective or improperly installed electric
baseboard heater. If the heater is shorted to the frame, the heater may
work OK, but the frame of the home will become "live" whenever the
thermostat calls for heat. Hence the shock hazard comes and goes,
and it only seen in colder months.
Test the Sniff-It on a known AC voltage source (like a fluorescent light or
an outlet), to make sure it detects the voltage.
To test the mobile home for hazardous voltage, while outside the home
standing on the earth, bring the tip close to the siding. If the Sniff-It begins
beeping and flashing, the siding may be "live". Do not touch the siding! It
could be that the Sniff-It is detecting a "live" circuit inside of the wall instead
of "live" siding. Move the Sniff-It around and try different locations to try to
verify if the siding is "live", or a circuit in the wall is "live".
Tracing Hidden Power Wires
Unshielded energized AC power wires can often be traced in wood frame walls.
Steel frame, concrete, and cinder block walls tend to block the electrostatic field
emanating from the wire, leading to reduced tracing sensitivity, often resulting in
unsatisfactory results.
Test the Sniff-It on a known AC voltage source (like a fluorescent light or an outlet),
to make sure it detects the voltage.
Put the tip of the Sniff-It against the surface of the wall. Experiment with the
positioning of the tip against the wall surface. It will usually be found that placing
the side of the tip against the wall will produce the greatest sensitivity. The Sniff-It
must beep and flash when positioned over the hidden wire. If this result cannot be
obtained, the hidden wire cannot be traced. If the wire can be located, trace it
through the wall by moving the Sniff-It in the direction that causes it to continue to
beep.
If the wire turns away from the tip, perhaps into an adjoining wall or ceiling, it may
not be traceable. Try continuing the trace in the adjoining wall or ceiling, if possible.
Keep in mind that the Sniff-It A can't discern one power wire from another. If
several power wires cross in the wall, the Sniff-It A may "jump" from one wire
to another when attempting a trace.
Additionally, any metal or electrically conductive objects or surfaces in the wall
can interfere with the trace, by either acting as a shield, or by radiating a false
signal.
If the Sniff-It does not have enough sensitivity to trace the hidden wire through
the wall, the Triplett Sniff-It 2 may provide a solution. It has almost 10 times the
sensitivity of the Sniff-It.
Testing Fuses
Fuses connected in AC circuits can be tested. The fuse must be the "cartridge" or
"axial leaded" type. Cartridge fuses are cylindrical with metal caps on the ends, and
range in size from small 5 x 20mm fuses used in electronics, to 6" or longer fuses
used in electrical distribution systems. Axial leaded fuses are generally small
cylindrical fuses with wires attached to the ends.To test, apply AC power to the
circuit with the fuse and touch the Sniff-It's probe, alternately, close to the ends of
the fuse. If the fuse is good, the Sniff-It should have the same response when
positioned over either end of the fuse. If the fuse is bad, the Sniff-It will flash and
beep much more quickly when positioned over one end of the fuse.
Notes: Because of the Sniff-It's high sensitivity, it may be able to pick up a
signal on both ends of a fuse, even though the fuse is blown. This is
particularly a concern when testing small fuses. To reduce the possibility of
a false reading, position the probe of the Sniff-It as close as possible to the
ends of the fuse when testing. If wires or circuitry are in close proximity to the
fuse being tested, the Sniff-It may pick up a signal from them instead of the fuse,
resulting in a false reading.
Some circuits may have AC power on both sides of a fuse, even though the fuse
blown. For example, a 220VAC circuit without a neutral (such as used on electric
baseboard heaters) may have a fuse on both lines to the heater. One of the fuses
can be blown, but both ends of both fuses will cause a Sniff-It to flash and beep. Also,
3 phase Delta wired power circuitry will have voltage on both sides of a blown fuse
installed in one leg of the Delta. However, the voltage will be different on the ends of
the fuse, so depending on the circumstances, it still may be possible to identify the
blown fuse
Finding breaks in AC power wiring
In some cases, the Sniff-It can be used to find breaks in AC power wiring. Breaks in
the "Hot" wire are usually detectable. Breaks in the "Neutral" wire may or may not be
detectable.
Break in the Hot wire (Romex), 120VAC:
Put a load on the wire that has the break. Practically anything intended to operate
from 120VAC power will work. Make sure the load is turned on (even though it won't
work because of the break in the Hot wire). A 100 watt light or clock radio will work.
Starting at the power distribution panel, trace along the length of the subject wire
with the Sniff-It. When the signal level drops off significantly, and the Sniff-It's beeping
and flashing slows, a break in the wire may be the cause. If the wire is hidden from view
(i.e. in a wall or ceiling), an unseen intermediate object may be causing the loss of signal,
or the wire may be turning away from the Sniff-It A into an adjacent wall or ceiling.
Break in a Neutral wire:
Hidden breaks in neutral wires can seldom be traced. Access to the neutral is usually
required to locate the break. Put a load on the wire that has the break. Make sure the
load is turned on (even though it won't work because of the break). Starting at the load,
test along the length of the subject wire with the Sniff-It, checking the neutral wire for
voltage at any accessible points of connection. At the location of the break, the signal
will drop significantly. For example, the subject neutral leads to a wire nut with 4 other
neutral wires. The subject neutral measures as "live", but the other neutrals measure as
dead. The break (open) is in the wire nut junction.
Common causes of breaks:
A wire has come loose from a terminal screw or wire nut. A loose or corroded terminal
screw on a duplex receptacle may cause loss of downstream power in "daisy chained"
circuits. One of the wires joined by a wire nut looses electrical connection to the other wires.
A drywall nail or screw has pierced the wire.
Note: The preceding scenarios assume the power wire is connected to a grounded power
distribution panel on one end, with 120VAC applied, and with a load connected to the
other end.
Checking polarity of extension cords and "Cut-Offs"
"Homemade" extension cords can be wired in the wrong polarity.
To test, plug the extension cord into a properly wired outlet and test the female end of
the cord as previously described in Checking 120VAC Outlets for proper polarity.
Experienced electricians can also determine the Hot and Neutral wires in unmarked 2
wire "cut-offs". Cut-Offs are partial extension cords with just the molded on male plug
intact. Sometimes, cut-offs are more accurately described as leftovers…… often leftover
from lighting installations. These cut-offs are often not marked for polarity, or, if marked,
it isn't clear what the marking means.
WARNING!!!
Only perform the following test if you are an experienced electrician. An
unconnected "live" wire is dangerous, and can result in user injury.
Separate the ends of the cut-off so the wires do not short out, and position the end away
from any surface that it might contact. It is not necessary to strip the insulation off of the
wires. Plug the cut-off into a live properly wired AC outlet. Identify the Hot wire by noting
which wire causes the Sniff-It to beep and flashes when the tip is held against the
side of the wire.