HOT GRIPS Ergo II (520-760) User Manual
Page 2
TOGGLE SWITCH: The diagram switch wiring is correct, the toggle switch sends power to the upper terminal when the switch
is moved to “Lo”. When the switch is moved up to “Hi” the power is sent to the bottom terminal, thus bypassing the Resistor.
There is a pivot mechanism inside the toggle switch which you cannot see, and that is why moving the switch to “LO”
sends the power up to the top terminal.
END WEIGHTS: or other need to open the ends: If the model you have purchased is not supplied with open ends, and you
need to open them, you may bore out the outboard ends of the grips for installation of end weights or other purpose. Use a
fine tooth hole saw and do not go larger than the handlebar’s inside diameter. We recommend at most 7/8”(22 mm) diameter
and be sure to center drill carefully. DO NOT use a hacksaw or you will destroy the grip, because there are resistance wires
molded into the grip outboard of the handlebar diameter. A Dremel® tool can be used with a very coarse abrasive stone
wheel or cylinder. These Hot Grips® have a heat output of 7 watts on “low” and 15 watts on “high” per grip. As a pair they
will consume 18 watts of electrical power on “low” and 30 watts on “high. They consume more than 7 x 2 on “low” because
the resistor consumes some electrical current.
PREPARATION: Remove old grips and any adhesive residue from the handlebars with solvent
or compressed air. Do NOT
rely on a press fit since the grips will expand when heated up, and could become loose, and thus unsafe. The grips rely
on 2-part slow-cure high temperature epoxy bonding to remain secure.
WIRING: The wires should be carefully secured to the handlebars. Use the cable ties supplied with the ATV or additional ties.
On the throttle side, make sure that the lead wires form a gentle loop with a radius
of about 3” so there is no stress on the wires
as you move through the throttle range of motion. Also, make sure the wires are not hitting anything as you move them through
the range of motion of the throttle.
Make sure the wires do not interfere with the brake lever in your plan before epoxying the
grips on.
EPOXY: D
ry fit the grips FIRST and determine where to position the wire exiting the throttle grip prior to permanently installing
the grips. Hot Grips® recommend only slow curing (generally considered 6+ hours, or overnight) two-part epoxy because it is
generally rated at 250 degrees F ( 120 degrees C.). The quicker curing epoxy is generally rated at 200 degrees F (94
degrees C.). DO NOT use other types of adhesives. DO NOT use silicone sealant, crazy glue, superglue, other cyanoacrylate
adhesives, weatherstrip adhesives, or anything else. Only use two-part epoxy of the type recommended. There are many
brands available, (ex: DURO, DEVCON, POXY-WELD, JB WELD, BORDEN.) They are commonly available at auto parts
stores, hardware stores, and is often found in Big Box store hardware or automotive departments. The reason Hot Grips®
Mfg., Inc. does not want you to use anything other than epoxy is because of the temperature these grips may reach in
service, and because other types of adhesives rely on solvent evaporation, which may take a very long time to cure. Most
other adhesives will soften and creep with elevated temperatures, and you don’t want these grips to loosen while riding.
After you have pre-determined
your grip’s external lead wire orientation in relation to the throttle housing, then you can
proceed
to use the epoxy. Mix the epoxy per the manufacturer’s instructions. It is important to mix in the correct ratio or the
epoxy will be weakened. Use a long slender object such as a pencil to get the epoxy spread evenly on the exterior of the
handlebar, BUT NOT INSIDE THE GRIP. The pencil can be rolled around the handlebar or throttle tube to ensure the layer
of epoxy is even or uniform thickness.
DO NOT PUT EPOXY IN THE GRIP INTERIOR unless it is being placed over one of our split bushings, instead
allow the
epoxy on the handlebar to find it’s way inside the grip as it is pushed on. The reason? You don’t want to gum up your throttle
mechanism from the outboard end inward. The epoxy will mesh with the inside ribs, locking the grip in place once the epoxy
cures. While aligning the external lead wires where you want them, push the grip on the handlebar fully, and you should clear
away epoxy as it is slid on if it builds up excessively as the grip moves fully into position. Again make sure you have clearance
for your levers and throttle movement so no interference will exist. This is extremely important, since once the epoxy
cures,
you won’t be able to adjust later. Never pull the throttle side grip off after you have started pushing it on an epoxy covered tube,
or when reintroducing the grip to the throttle tube you risk getting epoxy under the throttle tube, which will ruin your day. Never
force a grip on with a hammer, instead file any interfering ribs off the throttle tube so the grip is an easy slip fit. You want a slip
fit so t
he epoxy isn’t squeegeed off when installing. If you are in a hurry for it to cure, it is OK to quicken the cure by temporarily
wiring the two grips in “series“" as shown in our wiring diagram, putting the switch on “LOW” and applying 12 volts using a car
battery or a battery charger capable of at least 3 amps. 45 minutes will do it, but do not leave the grips heated and unattend-
ed. Let it cool for another 15-20 minutes. The heat will have accelerated the cure from the normal 6-8 hours down
to about an
hour. If the epoxy hasn’t cured you may need to give it heat again. If the second time doesn’t cure it, then you probably mixed
the epoxy in the wrong ratio, which prevents the epoxy from curing. Do not test the epoxy bond while it is curing by twisting the
grip. If you want to check if the epoxy has cured, check it at the area where a tiny amount of epoxy has squeezed out next to
the inboard end of the grip. Wait until
the epoxy is very hard. Repeat
for installing the other grip.
Hi-Off-Lo SWITCH: Locate a suitable site for your switch and drill a 1/2" or 13 mm hole in a safe convenient
location that does not interfere with anything on the motorcycle. In some cases you will have to improvise a
mounting area. Generally an area with access from the left hand is most appropriate.