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HOT GRIPS Ergo II (520-760) User Manual

HOT GRIPS Hardware

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Installation Instructions for Ergo grips or Model 401 with 2 bushings

HOT GRIPS® Manufactured under one or more of the following Patents: Canada 1,299,621 USA:

4,471,209 4,937,429 4,990,753

Your ATV or motorcycle must have the proper engine alternator to power the heated grips. The grips are a total of 30 watts at 12 volts, or 2.5 amps

of electrical current

if measured at a nominal 12 vdc. THESE MODELS MUST BE WIRED IN “SERIES” AS SHOWN IN DIAGRAM.

IMPORTANT: These Hot Grips® are for any motorcycle with .875” (22.22 mm) handlebars and a twist throttle that can accept a grip with the
overall length of 5.20“ and internal bore length of 4.90“. To pre-check the resistance each grip is between 2.2 and 2.6 ohms. You may
temporarily wire the two grips in series and test with 12v.- follow the wiring diagram supplied in “SERIES”.

Read through entire instructions before starting installation. If you cannot comfortably

install this product, hire a professional mechanic to do it.

If you want to pre-test the grips, use a V.O.M. and check that each Hot Grip® resistance measures in the range of 2.2 to 2.5 ohms. You can

temporarily wire them in series (see wiring diagram) and test on a 12 volt car battery or battery charger of minimum 3 amps if you desire.

Hot Grips® are designed to run with engines that have sufficient alternator output to satisfy both the headlight and the heated grips. If your

engine alternator cannot maintain the voltage when all required electrical loads are drawing from the system, then you will not get satisfactory

heat.

Determine how you will align the grips on the handlebars, taking into consideration the safety control levers, and any other items that the grips

may interfere with. Check for clearance with your thumb-throttle if you are installing on an ATV. If the large inboard rubber flange interferes with

full throttle movement, then correct it by trimming the large rubber flange. A new single edge razor blade works well for this. Do not cut within 1/2"

of the lead wires.

Two 7/8" x 1" bushings are included so this kit can be fit to either

:an ATV with 7/8" handlebars and thumb throttle in which case you need to use

one bushing on each side. An ATV with 1" handlebars and thumb throttle in which you can throw away the bushings. an ATV with 7/8" handlebars

and twist throttle in which you need one bushing on left side. A motorcycle with 7/8" handlebars in which you need one bushing on the left side.

BUSHINGS: The bushings are slit lengthwise to allow for slight variations in handlebar diameter, some of the metric bars are not exactly 7/8"

.

If you have a twist throttle be sure to install epoxy only on the first half of the throttle tube and NONE in the interior of the grip to avoid

pushing any epoxy inadvertently inside the throttle mechanism. If you get epoxy in there you will be an unhappy camper. Be very careful not

to force epoxy into the throttle and not to introduce epoxy between the throttle tube and the handlebar. As you install the grip, use a small flat

screwdriver to remove excess epoxy as the grip pushes it toward the inside. You don't want any of the epoxy to get on the throttle housing, or

it would prevent throttle action. The two bushings are supplied just in case the application requires them, such as an ATV with7/8" handlebars

with a thumb operated throttle. On a 7/8" motorcycle with a twist throttle you'd only use one of them on the clutch side. the bushing has an

edge on one end so you can only put it on full length and it then stops. You can do all the epoxy work at one time. Put a very thin amount of

epoxy on the inside of the bushing if the bushing is needed, so as to not artificially expand it more than necessary. You still want the grip to be

able to slide over it. After the bushing is put on the handlebar (the epoxy does not have to have cured, you can do it right away) then epoxy

the outside of the bushing, and then a small amount inside of the grip, and install the grip per the rest of the instructions.

SWITCH AND RESISTOR: The switch can be located at any convenient practical location that you can reach with your left hand that doesn't in-

terfere with safe machine operation. (Note that the orientation of the wires in our wiring illustration to the "Hi-Lo" switch plate is correct because

of the switch's internal pivot action.) Drill a 13mm or 1/2" hole to install switch. The resistor may be remotely mounted from the switch, using

any length

wires you need. Mount it securely on a metal area such as a metal frame tube where there will be air moving around the resistor to

dissipate heat. It will warm up during "low heat" operation. It is not in use during "off" or "high". The resistor should be secured with nylon wire

ties or other means on a metal surface in air flow. Do not mount it in your housing as an oven effect will take place and cause damage.

WIRING: There is no polarity to the wires on each grip, i.e. no positive or negative. Follow the wiring illustration. A good ground is
important so be sure to scrape the paint off the "ground connection" as a layer of paint may create a problem. Ground should be
to the engine or frame, not the handlebars, since some of them are rubber

-mounted and may affect a good ground connection.

Similarly the steering head bearing grease may interfere with a ground connection. Some machines use a wire or "common-wire
ground" instead of "frame-ground". The grips must be wired in "series", as

shown.

Do NOT Expose to Oils/Solvents: These grips are manufactured out of a synthetic rubber that will

not crack from sun exposure. Synthetic rubber is manufactured as a petroleum by-product and oils

are used as “modifiers”. Do NOT expose grips to oils or solvents or the “rubber” will be “modified

irreversibly” and ruined. Example, if you treat the palms of your leather gloves with MINK OIL it will

slowly rub itself into the grips and chemically alter the rubber so that it will become gummy, sticky,

and wear quickly because of degraded physical properties

.

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