Great Planes Rapture 40 - GPMA0220 - Manual (Page 10)

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7. Set the fin and rudder aside. Mark the centerlines and
hinge locations and cut the hinge slots on both elevators
and the stab the same way, but don’t cut the “V” until
instructed to do so.
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8. With the elevators temporarily connected to the
stabilizer with the hinges, determine which side looks best.
Write “bottom” on the other side of the center of the stab.
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9. Place the joiner wire on the bottom of the stab as
shown. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the location of the ends
of the joiner wire where it will go into the elevators.
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10. Extend the lines across the bottom of the elevator
using a small square.
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11. Drill a 9/64" [3.6mm] (or 1/8" [3.2mm]) hole 1" [25mm]
deep into both the elevators centered on the lines.
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12. Use a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube sharpened on the end
or a hobby knife to cut a groove in both elevators to
accommodate the joiner wire.
Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to sharpen the inside
of the tube by rolling it on a wood block.
The tube can be turned either by hand or by an electric
drill. After the hole has been cut the material will usually
stick inside the tube. The balsa “plug” can be removed
with a wire or the next size smaller tube.
Sharpen the outside of the tube using a fiber reinforced
cut-off wheel or a metal file. If using a cut-off wheel, be
certain to use the reinforced variety and always wear
safety glasses.
HOW TO SHARPEN A BRASS TUBE FOR
CUTTING BALSA
Often, using a brass tube sharpened on the end to cut
holes (or grooves) in balsa provides a much cleaner,
more accurate hole than would a regular drill bit. The
sharpening procedure below works on any size of hobby
tubing (available from K&S at hobby shops, craft stores
and hardware stores).
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