Davey SCMax 77 ECOMATIC Salt Water Pool Sanitizing System - Manual (Page 11)

11
Day to Day Operation
These prime rules must be observed if your unit is to give the best possible service:
1. Stabilizer:
Measure the stabilizer level using an appropriate test kit. It should be between 30 and 50ppm.
If the pool has never had stabilizer added, then approx. 50ppm of stabilizer should be added. Follow the directions for
adding it or load it directly into the pool pump inlets.
If there is some stabilizer present, but it is below 20ppm, add 30ppm to the pool and re-measure the level once it has
dissolved. Then add enough to make up the 50ppm. The amount of stabilizer to add is calculated as follows:
Stabilizer (lb) = (Level required – Level measured) x Pool Vol. (ft 2 )
1000
E.g. a 820m 3 pool has 30ppm of stabilizer present. Need to add 20ppm or 11lb.
IMPORTANT: Stabilizer is for use in outdoor pools only. It is used to reduce the loss of chlorine due to the effect of
sunlight. It should not be used in indoor pools as it may adversely affect pool chlorine demand.
IMPORTANT: Stabilizer is very slow to dissolve and if it is loaded into the pump inlets it can sit in the filters for a number
of days. If the filters are backwashed it will be lost. Monitor the stabilizer after back washing.
2. pH and Total Alkalinity
A correct pH level must be maintained to prevent problems such as black spot, staining, cloudy water, etc. An incorrect
pH level can damage the pool. Correct pH levels are as follows:
• Concrete & Tiled – 7.4 to 7.6
• Inert Surfaces – 7.2 to 7.4
If you allow the pH level to rise to 8.0 or above the chlorine required could be as much as three times the normal amount
and can cause increased cell scaling. To lower the pH add Hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid. To raise the pH level add Sodium
Bicarbonate or Soda Ash.
Total Alkalinity should not be confused with pH, although the two are closely related. The correct Total Alkalinity buffers
the pool water against rapid changes in pH and prevents what is known as pH ‘bounce’ where the pH value rises and falls
sharply. It is measured in ppm; the ideal range is 80 to 120 ppm, or refer to your pool professional.
You should use a test kit which includes a test for Total Alkalinity. Low Total Alkalinity can cause unstable pH levels – i.e.
An inability to keep the pH constant may cause staining, etching and corrosion of metals. High Total Alkalinity will cause
constantly high pH levels. To lower, add Hydrochloric Acid (a little at a time). To raise, add Sodium Bicarbonate.
3. Salt Levels
Salt levels MUST be maintained at 4500-6000ppm for optimum performance and lifespan. Operating the Unit with too
little salt in the pool will cause damage to your Cell.
Salt is the essential element by which your Unit operates. Low salt means low chlorine production - this simple rule
governs the total operation of your ECO-matic and insufficient salt WILL damage your Cell.
Salt is NOT consumed in the process of producing chlorine or by evaporation. Salt is only lost through back - washing,
splash - out, overflow or by leakage from the pool or plumbing. Rain can dilute the salt solution in your pool; therefore salt
levels should be checked after heavy rainfall.
Colder water lowers the conductivity of the pool water. This will reduce the unit output and turn the WARNING LED red. If
this occurs extra salt should be added or damage to the cell will result If water temperature is below 65 ºF, it is suggested
the ECO-matic unit be switched off .
Low salt levels will destroy the coating on the Anode plates and will void all Warranty.
The ECO-matic unit has a built in warning system to minimize damage resulting from insufficient salt levels, however, the
ultimate responsibility is on the owner to ensure adequate salt levels are maintained all year round.
WARNING: Monitor water chemical levels at regular intervals. If overdosing of chemicals occur, ensure bathers are
prevented from entering the pool until water chemical levels are returned to normal range..