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The air inside your home, Naturally better, Water heaters – Regency Natural Living Gas Fireplaces User Manual

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naturally better

Y

ou’re home after a long day. Time to relax and

breathe a little easier. Or not. Truth be told, the air in-

side your home is probably worse than it is outside,

smog and allergens included. The Environmental Pro-

tection Agency (EPA) has estimated that indoor air is

up to 10 times worse than the air we breathe outside. Given those

kinds of statistics, homeowners nationwide are more interested

than ever in breathing easier. The good news is that more man-

ufacturers and building suppliers are designing products that can

help us all take a deep, healthy breath.

Take desiccants, for example. That’s what’s in those little pack-

ets found in everything from pill bottles to pillowcases — essen-

tially, minerals like silica gel, calcium sulfate and other substances

that act as natural dehumidifiers, removing moisture from the air,

pills or even pillowcases. Ever seen rice inside salt shakers at

restaurants? Rice is a “low-tech” desiccant, and it’s there to make

sure that moisture doesn’t make the salt clump when you’re try-

ing to shake it on French fries. When used as part of your home’s

heating and air conditioning system, desiccants help remove mois-

ture in the air, improving your home’s indoor air quality.

“A desiccant unit can take a house’s relative humidity down

to 45 to 50 percent, helping homeowners avoid a whole host of

pathogens,” says Scott Janke of Novelaire, the only manufacturer

of residential gas-fired desiccant systems. “Indoor air quality has

always been a big issue, and this alleviates a lot of the problems.”

ASHRE, a nationally recognized engineering association,

states that the optimum humidity level for controlling, bacteria,

viruses and dust mites is between 40 and 60 percent. Living in a

house with just 50 percent relative humidity means living in a

home where health and allergy issues related to mold and dust

mites are dramatically decreased. That’s because mold can’t grow

in homes with 50 percent humidity, and dust mites can’t repro-

duce (it’s their waste that triggers allergy problems). “People tend

to crank up the air conditioner when it’s hot and sticky in the

house,” Janke says. “You don’t have to do that with a desiccant

system because it controls the humidity.”

If you live in a high humidity area, then you understand and

probably detest that sticky, clammy feeling. High humidity causes

us to feel hotter, so we lower the temperature on our air condi-

tioner and then we get cold — so we start the up-down thermo-

stat war. Less relative humidity means the house stays drier, your

air conditioner doesn’t have to work as hard, and everyone

breathes easier. A desiccant system operates independent of

your home’s AC system, so it operates only when the moisture

level in your home goes over the unit’s setting. “Homeowners

end up feeling comfortable at higher temperatures, and that can

save money on energy bills,” says Janke.

Contact your local natural gas company or a heating and air

conditioning contractor to discuss the installation of a desiccant

unit in your home.

The Air Inside Your Home

Learn how desiccants can improve air quality and help your
family breathe easier.

By Amy E. Lemen

Whether you decide to invest in a desiccant system now or later
(prices range from $4,000 to $5,000, installed), take these steps
now for healthier air in your home.

1. Vent bathrooms, kitchens, toilets and laundry rooms directly

outdoors, and use energy-efficient and quiet fans.

2. Avoid locating furnaces, air conditioners and ductwork in

garages or other spaces where they could draw contami-
nants into the house.

3. Properly vent fireplaces, wood stoves and other hearth

products, and use tight doors and outdoor air intakes
wherever possible.

4. Vent clothes dryers and central vacuum cleaners

directly outdoors.

5. Store toxic or volatile compounds, such as paints, solvents,

cleaners and pesticides, outside livable spaces.

6. Minimize or avoid unvented combustion sources such

as indoor barbecues.

7. Open windows when you’re using strong chemical

products, such as home cleaning products and paint.

8. Use sealed-combustion, power-vented or condensing water

heaters and furnaces. If you’re using natural-draft applica-
tions, be sure they’ve been tested for proper venting and,
if possible, that they’re located outside living spaces.

9. Invest in a good particle filter or air cleaner in your air

handling system to keep dirt out of the air and off your
ductwork and heating and cooling components.

10. Use whole-house mechanical ventilation to let a minimum

level of outdoor air circulate throughout the home.

Source: American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers.

Top Ways

to Improve

Indoor

Air Quality

Backup Generators

Given the volatile weather of the past five years, it’s not surprising

that the sale of backup power generators to homeowners has in-

creased. In fact, a 2006 study found that half of those who lived in

hurricane-prone states (essentially the entire Gulf Coast — about

nine million households) expected to lose power at least once dur-

ing each hurricane season.

Add to that the power loss from downed power lines during

snowstorms, ice storms and tornados, and you’re looking at a

power-loss scenario that many homeowners are eager to avoid.

“We’ve definitely seen an increase in demand, especially as the

cost has come down in recent years and generators have become

more affordable,” says Troy Blewett of Briggs & Stratton. “Pricing

now is about $3,000 to $5,000 without installation. That’s worth

it to many people.”

Today’s backup generators are often called standby genera-

tors, because they’re literally “standing by” when your main power

goes out, turning on automatically when you need it.

Smaller, portable units are also available, which run

on gas and are often used by campers, homeowners

and contractors who need an extra source of power

for recreation or work, but it’s

the installed units that most

homeowners want.

“The demand for standby

units has really started to kick

in over the past five years,” says

Blewett. “Even in new con-

struction,

they’re

starting

to

become a regular part of the

home, just like an air condi-

tioning unit.”

Water Heaters

Today’s water heaters have more features

and options than ever, which translates into

more choices for homeowners.

There are two types of water heating

systems: the most common is a conven-

tional tank system, which stores and heats

water in a tank until needed; and a contin-

uous or tankless water heating system,

which has a a higher efficiency rating than

any other conventional residential water

heating system. “Tankless is about 25 to 28

percent more efficient, and people love

them because you never run out of hot

water,” says Butch Aikens, resource man-

ager for Rheem, which

makes tank and

tankless models. “They cost more, but for

most people, it’s about the features and

benefits they get with it.”

When selecting a water heater, con-

sider the first hour rating (FHR) to properly

size a storage water heater or select the

model of a tankless unit. The FHR is the

amount of hot water the water heater can

supply in the first hour of operation. It’s a

combined

measurement

of

how

much

water is stored in the water heater and how

quickly the water heater can heat cold

water to the desired temperature. Use this

rating to compare hot water delivery capa-

bilities of similar models and determine the

best unit for your household. For example,

a Maytag 40-gallon electric water heater has

an FHR of 50 gallons at 3800 watts, or 58

gallons at 5500 watts. A comparable Maytag

gas water heater has an FHR of 73 gallons

for a power vent model and 81 gallons for

a standard model.

Look for the EnergyGuide Label, which

lists the first hour rating in the top left cor-

ner as “Capacity.” Finally, think about how

long it will take

for

the

water

heater

to

re-

cover

and

be

ready

for

the

next

shower

should

it

run

out

of

hot

water.

A water heater’s energy effi-

ciency (its Energy Factor, or

EF) depends on how quickly

the energy source (gas or

electric) heats the water,

how much energy is lost

when the water heater is

idle, and energy lost as

the unit cycles on and off.

Photo courtesy of

Bradford White.

Suppliers report surging

sales of compact, efficient

backup (“standby”) genera-

tors, which help homeown-

ers stay powered during

outages.

Photo courtesy of

Briggs & Stratton.