Lennox Hearth EST-50 - Manual (Page 6)

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NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS ARE NOT TO SCALE.
LENNOX HEARTH PRODUCTS • ESTATE™ SERIES WOOD-BURNING FIREPLACES • MODELS EST-36/42/50 • CARE AND OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
CREOSOTE FORMATION AND REMOvAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar
and other organic vapors, which combine
with expelled moisture to form creosote. The
creosote vapors condense in the relatively
cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As
a result, creosote residue accumulates on the
flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes
an extremely hot fire.
The chimney should be inspected at least twice
yearly during the heating season to determine
if a creosote build-up has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be
removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemi-
cal chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot
fire. The chemical cleaners can be dangerous
and generally only work on the flue section
nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue
unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean
the flue as previously described or have the
chimney professionally cleaned by a qualified
chimney sweep.
TROUBLESHOOTING
No Smoking Allowed
Your new fireplace is designed not to smoke if
properly installed and operated per our instruc-
tions. If you do experience a problem, here are
several things to check:
1. Remember – always check to ensure your
flue damper is in the open position before
lighting a fire!
2. When lighting your fire, a little smoke may
escape into the room – more likely if the chimney
is cold. To correct this, hold a lighted newspaper
up inside the firebox near the open flue damper.
This will turn around any downdraft and clear the
flue of cold air. As your log fire burns below, the
updraft will improve as the chimney heats up.
3. Is your fire too far forward? Move it toward
the back with your poker. Keep the fire well
within the confines of your fuel grate.
4. Keep your fire up on the grate and the re-
fractory below free of excessive ashes. The fire
needs plenty of air movement around the logs.
Proper care and “burn-in” of the firebox will pro-
long the period of enjoyment without extensive
maintenance. For the first few uses, build small
fires – not roaring infernos. The materials used
in the refractories contain and absorb moisture.
It is important to “cure” the refractories by build-
ing only modest fires. Under normal usage, it is
expected that hairline cracks will appear in the
refractory surface. These hairline cracks do not
affect the safe operation of the fireplace.
MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES
Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble-free
with minimum maintenance. However, like any
fine appliance, it deserves and requires some
housekeeping attention.
Your fireplace will perform better – and certainly
look more attractive to family and friends – if
it is cleaned before each use. Before the first
seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire
in Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace
system carefully. We recommend at least two
complete fireplace inspections a year.
Before Each Use
1. Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some
owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate
the cold refractory below the grate which helps
fire starting.
This fireplace has a factory supplied grate at-
tached, it is permissible to remove the grate for
cleaning; however, the grate must be re-attached
to the fireplace before the next burn.
2. Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus-
tion air flows freely.
3. Spot check the brick-like refractory for small
cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly.
When it cools, it contracts.
Refractories should be replaced when:
1. The crack opens more than 1/4" (19 mm).
2. Pitting in the surface is extensive and pits
become deeper than 3/16" (4.76 mm).
3. Any piece of refractory larger than 2" (51 mm)
in radius and 3/16" deep becomes dislodged.
If conditions 1, 2 or 3 occur, the refractory
should be replaced.
TWICE A YEAR CHECk-UP
Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your
fireplace following this list:
1. Inspect the opening in your chimney top
and remove any debris that could clog it. The
cap is usually held in place by four (4) screws,
which remove easily for checking or cleaning
the full length of the flue from above. Remove
the chimney top while wearing gloves to guard
against any sharp metal edges.
2. Inspect the entire flue from the top down for
obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc.
This may be done by using a flexible handled
chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney contains
offset/return elbows; a soft brush cleaning from
the top down to any elbow and then from the
firebox up to the offset/return section is the
proper method. The beam from a powerful
flashlight will help in this inspection.
3. Look up from inside the fireplace (damper
open) to see any obstructions in the lower flue
area. If present, shut the damper and glass doors
(if installed) to seal the firebox and contain any
soot that might fall.
If your do not have glass doors installed, a damp
sheet covering the fireplace opening and sealed
with masking tape will do. Then clean the flue
from the top down (if an offset system, clean
per Step 2) using a proper size chimney brush
with flexible pole sections. Don’t open the doors
or remove the sheet until all soot has settled.
Vacuum, don’t sweep.
4. Check the metal flashing and seals around
your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose nailhead
openings to prevent roof leaks.
5. Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft
brush or equivalent.
WARNING
Continued over firing can per-
manently damage your fireplace
system. Some examples of over
firing are:
• Burning quantities of scrap
lumber, pine branches, paper or
cardboard boxes which exceed
the volume of the normal log
fire.
• Burning trash, chemicals or
chemically treated combus-
tibles.