Peachtree Audio iDac - Manual (Page 12)

T r o u b l e
S h o o t i n g
The remote control doesn’t work
Please check the batteries by removing the cover on
the back of the remote. It is an infrared remote so it
needs a clear line of sight to the sensor on the front
panel of the iDac.
You intermittently lose your signal on the
USB input
First, try relaunching your music server program (iTunes,
WMP, etc.). If your computer still doesn’t recognize the
USB DAC unplug the USB cable from the computer and
the iDac, wait a few seconds, then reconnect. These are
computer hookups, and sometimes you’ll lose a signal just
as with your printer or other USB device. You should
not have this problem often. We designed the iDac to
remain locked on the USB signal at all times, but signal
dropouts are still possible.
You pick up hum and noise through your iDac
in your office system
This can require some trial and error diagnostics. If you
have music files available on a laptop computer connect
it (while on battery power) to the iDac. If it works properly,
with no noise, then the computer in your office is introducing
a ground loop into the system. This is not uncommon. How-
ever, the iDac’s digital inputs are transformer-coupled to
minimize this problem. If a problem persists, please feel
free to contact Peachtree Audio.
When you switch from one source to another
you get a loud “click” or “pop”
Sometimes this is from static buildup but it should not
occur consistently over a long period of time. Contact
your dealer or Peachtree Audio if this persists.
Your coaxial digital connections do not sound
quite right
You must use a wide bandwidth 75 ohm digital interconnect
in this application. If you use a standard audio RCA cable
the results will not be nearly as good. This is not an
unusual mistake as the two interconnects look identical
but sound different.
Your iPod doesn’t sound quite right through
the iDac
Your iPod offers custom equalizations for headphone use
that aren’t necessary with the iDac and a good pair of
speakers. We recommend using a “flat” response. If you find
that you still need equalization, then start at “flat” and make
your settings from that point.
You lose your signal on the USB input
The first thing to try is rebooting the music server program
( iTunes, Foobar, WMP, etc) and see if that works. Then
try turning the iDac off, then re-boot your computer.
Then turn the iDac back on. If the computer still doesn’t
recognize the USB DAC repeat the process and also
unplug the USB cable from the computer and the iDac,
then plug it back in right before re-booting. These are
computer devices, and sometimes you’ll lose a signal
just like your printer or any other USB connected device.
The iDac will not turn on
Be sure the AC plug is connected at the back panel and at
the AC outlet, and that the outlet is live. Check the fuse.
The iDac turns on but there is no sound
Be sure your system is not muted and that the iDac has
been selected. Be sure your digital source is on and
playing. If the iDac’s input button is blinking then your
digital signal is not locked. Check to be sure your digital
cable is properly connected.
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