Bruce Natural Reflections - Manual (Page 3)

STEP 3: Spread the Adhesive (Glue-Down Installations)
• Spread sufficient amounts of recommended adhesive with the recommended trowel (Figure 2) in an area that can be
covered in 30–60 minutes. (See Adhesive Information.)
• If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 1 ″ (2.5 cm) nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row in
place.
NOTE: Avoid installing on the surface of the flooring. If necessary, distribute weight using a kneeler board.
STEP 4: Installing the Floor
(Glue-Down Installations)
(Figures 10a–10d)
• Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. The first row of
the hardwood flooring should be installed with the edge of the groove lined up on the
chalk line. The tongue should be facing the starting wall. The first row must be
aligned and seated in the adhesive as all additional rows will be pushed back to this
original row. Remove the tongue to allow for expansion space, if necessary, on the
row adjoining the wall.
• When installing pieces, engage the end-joint first, as close to the side (long) tongue
and groove as possible, then slide together tightly to engage the side (long) joint
tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleed-through and memory pull-back, avoid
sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when placing them in
position.
• During the installation, occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the subfloor and
inspect the back for proper adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is
necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength. If the adhesive skins over and fails
to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding.
• For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive
container. When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent
thickening. Thickening will cause difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper
ventilation within the room must be provided.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently, using the recommended
adhesive cleaner. Urethane adhesives become extremely difficult to remove when
cured. Do not use 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape before adhesive is removed from the
surface. Use clean towels, changed frequently, to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
• Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent
rows should be staggered 6 ″ (15 cm) when possible to ensure a more favorable
overall appearance (Figure 4).
• It may be necessary to align the product with a cut-off piece of scrap as shown
(Figure 11) Keep scrap angle low to avoid edge damage.
• To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of product during installation, use 3M
Scotch-Blue 2080 Tape to hold the planks together. After installation is complete,
remove all the 3M Scotch-Blue 2080 Tape from the surface of the newly installed
flooring. Do not let the tape remain on the flooring longer than 24 hours. Avoid the
use of masking or duct tape, which leaves an adhesive residue and may damage
the finish.
• If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows, until adhesive cures, in order
to prevent hollow spots. Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to
reduce the bow or should not be used.
• Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. (Figure 10d)
• Complete the installation using this same technique for the remainder of the floor.
• Avoid heavy foot traffic on the floor for at least 24 hours. Lift the furniture or fixtures
back into place after 24 hours. Continue to Step 6.
STEP 6: Complete the Installation
(All Installation Methods)
• Remove all tape and clean the floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
• Install or re-install any transition pieces, reducer strips, T-moldings, thresholds, bases and/or quarter round moldings
that may be needed. These products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring (see below). Nail moldings
into the wall, not the floor.
• Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the
flooring they purchased.
• To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard, or
appliance lifts if necessary. Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage
to the flooring.
V. TRANSITION AND WALL MOLDINGS
• Reducer Strip: A teardrop-shaped molding used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition
between hardwood flooring and adjacent thinner floor coverings. Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-
faced tape.
• Threshold: A molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing
thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with
adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Stair Nosing: A molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down
firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Quarter Round: A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Pre-drill
and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• Combination Base and Shoe: A molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the
floor and the wall. Pre-drill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• T-Molding: A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain
expansion spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional rigid support may need to be added to
the heel of the molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered. Do not use this molding as a transition
to carpet.
General Information for Staple-Down
Installations
Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can cause
severe damage to the flooring. The correct fastening machine and air
pressure setting will properly set the staple in the nail pocket (Figure 5).
Low air pressures may fail to properly set the staple and damage the
adjoining boards. Air pressures set too high may cause damage to the
tongue, preventing installation of adjoining boards and cause blisters on the
face of the flooring. Make certain the compressor has a regulator in-line
with the air hose for proper adjustment. Set pressure at 70 PSI to begin with
and adjust until proper staple setting occurs. Use a stapler designed for the
thickness of the product being installed such as the Stanley Bostitch
SX150BHF or others listed. Any water damaged, swollen, or delaminated
subflooring materials will not hold staples and must be repaired or replaced.
STEP 1: Doorway and Wall Preparation
(All Installation Methods)
Undercut door casings and jambs. Remove any existing base, shoe mold,
or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation. All
door casings and jambs should be undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts
(Figure 6).
STEP 2: Establish a Starting Point
(All Installation Methods)
• Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual
effects, however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the
flooring joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor
sagging.
• When possible, always begin the layout or installation from the straightest
wall, generally an outside wall.
• In at least two places at least 18 ″ (46 cm) from the corner, measure out
equal distance from the starting wall (Figure 7) and snap a chalk line. The
measurement must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an
additional 7/8
″ (22 mm) to allow for 3/4″ (19 mm) expansion space and
the width of the tongue.
STEP 3: Installing the Moisture Retardant
Barrier
(Staple-Down Installations)
CAUTION: The moisture retardant barrier may be slippery and unstable when walked on prior to the installation of the
flooring. Use extreme care during installation.
• Roll out the materials in the same direction the flooring will be installed, allowing the moisture retardant barrier to
extend 3 ″–4″ (8–10 cm) up the walls.
• Position the moisture retardant barrier so the chalk lines can be seen through this material.
• Staple or tape at the corners to hold the moisture retardant barrier in position.
• Overlap the moisture retardant barrier 6 ″ (15 cm) at all joints and poly tape the seams together. The first piece of
moisture retardant barrier will be secured when the first row of flooring is installed.
STEP 4: Installing First and Second Rows
(Staple-Down Installations)
• Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.
• Align the tongue of the first row on the chalk line. The groove should be
facing the starting wall.
• Use a pneumatic brad nailer to face-nail the groove side 1/2 ″ (13 mm) from
the edge of the wall at 6 ″ (15 cm) intervals and 1″–2″ ( 2.5–5 cm) from
each end, then face-nail at a 45º angle-down through the nailing “pocket”
on top of the tongue (Figure 8). OR pre-drill the nail holes 1/2
″ (13 mm)
from the back (groove) edge, 1 ″–2″ (2.5–5 cm) from each end, and at 6″
(15 cm) intervals. Pre-drill at the same intervals at a 45º angle down
through the nailing “pocket” on top of the tongue (Figure 8). Face-nail the
groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a 45º angle
through the tongue of the first row. Fasten using 4 or 6d nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of the
groove. Avoid bruising the hardwood by using a nail set to countersink the nails. Continue blind-nailing using this
method with following rows until the stapler can be used.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6 ″ (15 cm) to ensure a more favorable overall
appearance. (Figure 4)
STEP 5: Installing the Floor (Staple-Down Installations)
• Using one of the approved staple guns, set the compressor as previously recommended.
• Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage, etc. before
proceeding. Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been
made, remove and destroy the board.
• Install the floor from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6 ″ (15 cm) when possible to ensure a more favorable overall
appearance.
• Begin installation with several rows at a time, fastening each board 3 ″–4″ (8–10 cm) apart and 1″–2″ (2.5-5 cm) from
the ends (to avoid splitting) with a minimum of three fasteners per board. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps
before fastening. (See General Installation Tips.)
• Install the remainder of the floor working from several cartons.
• The last 1–2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with a stapler or brad nailer.
Brad-nail or pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
• Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the final row is less than 1
″ (2.5 cm) in width, it should first be edge-glued to the
previous UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one.
General Information for Glue-Down Installations
• Working time will vary depending on the job-site conditions. Open times and curing times of all adhesives vary
dependent upon subfloor porosity, air movement, humidity and room temperature. Urethane adhesive has a shortened
working time in high humidity environments.
• Avoid installing from the surface of the flooring. If necessary, distribute weight using a kneeler board.
• Hold the trowel at a minimum 45 degree angle (Figure 9) firmly against the subfloor
to obtain a 50–60 ft. 2 (4-5.5 m 2 ) per gallon spread rate. The trowel will leave ridges
of adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. This will allow you to still
see the chalk lines between the ridges and provide the recommended spread rate.
• Clean the adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently. Do not use blue tape
before the adhesive is removed. Use a clean towel, changing frequently to prevent
hazing.
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING RUBBER MALLETS. STRIKING THE
SURFACE WITH A RUBBER MALLET MAY “BURN” THE FINISH CAUSING
IRREPARABLE DAMAGE.
45 ˚ -90 ˚
Figure 9
Reducer Strip Threshold Stair Nosing Quarter Round Combination
Base and Shoe T-Molding
Figure 11
3
Wood Plank
Figure 5
Too Low Correct Too High
Figure 6
Figure 7
Sum of width of product
+ 7/8 (22 mm)
for expansion
STARTING WALL
Chalk line
Figure 8
chalk line
work area - adhesive
Figure 10a
chalk line
work area - adhesive
groove side
2 3 1
Figure 10b
Figure 10c
1 2 3
10 11 12
13
4 5 6
7 8 9
Figure 10d