Mach III Clutch 118FM & 118FM-ULOW - Manual (Page 4)

7/10/2013 CLUTCH_SENSIFLEX_FM_MANUAL Page 4 of 5
IV. Repair Procedure
Tools Needed
Hex wrench set
Retainer (snap) ring pliers
Flat head screw driver
Scraper (if replacing bearings)
0.010 Inch feeler gauge Compounds Required
Grease
O-Ring lubricant
Anti-Seize Lubricant
A. Clutch Removal
Clutch can be removed by two methods:
1. Remove the four (4) socket head cap screws from each of the foot brackets and lift only the
clutch from the foot mounts.
2. Remove the four bolts which affix the foot brackets to the mounting plate and remove the
entire clutch assembly. The foot brackets may be removed or left in place for the remainder of
the repair process - whichever allows easier handling.
B. Disassembly and Friction Disc Replacement
Loosen set screw in adjustment nut and remove nut from drive hub. The bearing under the nut is a
sliding fit and the cylinder/piston/disc subassembly should slide off of the shaft. If not, use a soft-
faced hammer to tap loose. If installing only a facing kit, use caution to avoid losing the wave
spring (38FM, 58FM & 78FM) or six coil springs (98FM & 1180FM) located between the drive disc
and drive hub when separating. The friction disc is attached to the drive disc with six (6) flathead
brass screws. Remove the screws and worn friction disc. Mount new friction disc by snugging all
screws first then tighten firmly using an alternating sequence. Do not over-tighten. Inspect the
mating surface of the cast iron sleeve input member. Grooves in the surface would indicate that
the friction disc should have been replaced sooner and the heads of the mounting screws have
made contact. This surface must be free from grooves, burrs and foreign materials for proper
clutch operation. If damage is pronounced, please contact Mach III Clutch or your distributor
regarding the sleeve replacement procedure. In addition, clutch should be inspected for
discoloration (turning blue). If discoloration is present, it is possible the unit is being operated
beyond its capacity and Mach III Clutch should be contacted for assistance.
C. Diaphragm and/or Bearing Replacement
Diaphragm replacement should rarely be necessary if the air supply is regulated and free of
contamination and if the gap between the friction and drive disc is properly set. Care should be taken
when mounting the clutch to insure maximum bearing life.
1. Diaphragm Replacement
Separate the air cylinder and piston by pulling apart taking care not to bend pins. Pinch the
diaphragm and pull from the grooves which retain it. Make sure that the retaining grooves and
surface underneath the diaphragm are clean & free from debris. Lightly lubricate the new
diaphragm (if replacement is necessary) with an O-ring lubricant such as Dow Corning® #4.
Install with the lips located on the ID and OD of the diaphragm facing downward. Press the lips
into the grooves by applying pressure while gliding a finger along each perimeter of the
diaphragm and then assure that the lips are fully seated by running your thumb across the
surface of the diaphragm in a clockwise motion several times.