Banks Power Ford Motorhomes: (Gas ’93 - 98 7.5L Class-A) PowerPack System (Class-A, JD_OK chassis) For Use w_ 460 EFI Engine - Manual (Page 3)

general installation practices
for ease of installation and trouble-free operation
of your banks powerpack ® , please read this 12-page
Owner’s Manual before starting any work. (If any pages
are missing from this package, please call gale banks
engineering immediately for a replacement). become
thoroughly familiar with all components and phases of
the installation before starting any work.
inspect all components supplied for any foreign
material that may have entered during shipping and
handling.
WarnIng: Motorhomes are very heavy. Whatever
methods are used to elevate the vehicle must be of
sufficient capacity for the vehicle weight involved.
neVer work under any vehicle supported only by a
jack of any kind. dO nOT use concrete blocks or other
masonry items that may collapse under the vehicle
weight.
pay particular attention to the routing of any wires.
keep them away from exhaust heat, moving parts and
sharp edges that may cause cuts or other damage.
route or tie wires away from critical areas as required.
keep all wires a minimum of 6” from hot exhaust parts,
8” or more is recommended whenever possible.
right-hand and left-hand designations refer to the
driver’s right or left, as seated in the vehicle, (i.e.: right-
hand refers to the passenger side of the vehicle, unless
noted otherwise.
the banks motorhome powerpack is designed to fit
class a 460 ford/oshkosh and john deere engine/
chassis combinations. because of different equipment
layouts used by various coach builders, some
accessories and components may have to be relocated
to accommodate the air-intake components of the
banks powerpack.
Notification
The Banks Ram-Air Filter comes pre-
oiled and no oiling is necessary for initial
installation. Service the filter as specified
in the Cleaning and Oiling the Banks Ram-
Air Filter Section of this manual.
facTOry exhausT ManIfOld bOlT reMOval
because of a condition inherent in the factory
design, the exhaust manifolds may crack the
manifold-to-head bolts as manifolds undergo
changes in length from expansion and contraction.
In some cases, these forces may also crack
the exhaust bolt bosses on the cylinder head.
cracked bolts will not show any external damage,
but bolt heads may break off upon removal.
We recommend that you do the following to
minimize the possibility of broken manifold
bolts.
apply a penetrating oil (such as liquid
Wrench) to the area where each exhaust
manifold bolt enters the cylinder head.
If some bolts turn more easily than others,
remove these bolts first. This may reduce
stress on the tighter bolts.
The use of an impact wrench is recommended,
when available. The hammering action of the
impact tool helps loosen the bolts better than the
steady pull of a wrench handle.
If a manifold bolt does break off, it may be
removed by one of the following methods.
1.
if there is enough thread remaining on the
broken bolt to install two nuts, it may be
possible to jam the nuts together to turn the bolt.
Tighten the nuts against each other, then turn the
bolt by turning the inner nut counterclockwise.
2.
if there is some thread protruding from the
head, but not enough to install double nuts,
it may be possible to grip the bolt with a tool such
as a vise-grip pliers.
3.
if the bolt has broken off near or below the
flange surface of the head, it may be drilled
and removed with a screw extractor, such as an
easy-Out. Make sure you drill the pilot hole in the
center of the broken bolt with the proper size drill
for the extractor used. If the hole is not on center,
it may cause the extractor to bite into the threads
in the head, preventing the extractor from turning.
3 p.n. 96347
3.
2.
1.