Gauge installation, Gauge lighting – Banks Power Pyrometer User Manual
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When passing through the firewall, 
either make a hole in a factory 
grommet or drill a hole and use 
a new grommet. If a hole needs 
to be drilled, drill a 
5
⁄
16
” hole and
deburr it on both sides, so that the 
wiring or tubing does not get cut 
as it passes through the hole. For 
added protection, wrap the wiring 
with several layers of electrical 
tape in the area where it passes 
through the hole. When drilling, 
check the backside to make sure 
that there are no components 
blocking the back side of the hole 
that would be damaged by drilling.
On the sensor end, connect the 
wires to the sensor with the 
supplied screws. The wires are 
different lengths to prevent cross-
connecting. Make sure that the 
screws are tight.
Slide the heat shrink tubing 
provided over the connections and 
apply heat to the tubing with a 
heat-gun or other heat source.
Gauge Installation
Position the gauge through the 
console or gauge panel. Slip the 
plastic U-clamp, provided with the 
pyrometer, over the studs on the 
rear of the gauge and tighten the 
nuts, provided.
NOTE: If it is necessary to 
replace one of the terminal 
ends, use a crimp-tool only. Do 
not solder the wires.
Gauge lighting
connect the 4-pin male connector 
to the 4-pin female connector 
on the back of the gauge. Using 
the wiring kit provided, strip and 
connect one end of each of the 
six-foot wires to wires on the 4-pin 
connector assembly with the butt 
connectors, using an appropriate 
crimp tool. Make sure to connect 
the red wires to the (+) terminal 
and the black wires to the ground. 
Incorrect wiring will result in a 
non-working LED. (See Figure 3). 
If more than one gauge is being 
used, the wires from other 4-pin 
connectors may be doubled up in 
the butt connectors. No more than 
two wires should be in either end 
of the butt connector. Route the 
red wire to the fuse panel. Identify 
the circuit for the dashboard lights 
and remove the fuse. Install the 
appropriate fuse tap under the 
non-powered leg of the fuse. This 
is the socket that has no power 
when the dash light switch is on, 
as tested with a test-light or multi-
meter. cut and strip the red wire 
to an appropriate length and install 
the female push-on connector. 
connect the wire to the fuse tap. 
Route the black wire to a location 
where a good ground can be 
found. cut and strip the wire to an 
appropriate length and crimp the 
ring terminal to the wire. Install the 
ring terminal under an existing bolt 
or washer, or use the self-tapping 
screw provided to connect to the 
ground.
Route all wiring away from 
any pedals or other moving 
components. Using the cable ties 
supplied, secure the wiring under 
the dash.
