Banks Power Ford Motorhomes: (Gas ’93 - 98 7.5L Class-A) PowerPack system (Class-A, Carb, JD-OK Chassis) For use w_ 460 carbureted engine - Manual (Page 3)

general installation practices
for ease of installation and trouble-free
operation of your banks powerpack ® ,
please read this entire 12-page owner’s manual
before starting any work. (If any pages are
missing from this package, please call gale banks
engineering immediately for a replacement.)
become thoroughly familiar with all components
and phases of the installation before starting any
work.
inspect all components supplied for any
foreign material that may have entered
during shipping and handling.
caution: Whatever methods are used
to elevate the vehicle must be of sufficient
capacity for the vehicle weight involved. neVer
work under any vehicle supported only by a
jack of any kind. do not use concrete blocks or
other masonry items that may collapse under the
vehicle weight.
pay particular attention to the routing of
any wires. keep them away from exhaust
heat, moving parts and sharp edges that may
cause cuts or other damage. route or tie wires
away from critical areas as required. keep all
wires a minimum of 6” from hot exhaust parts, 8”
or more is recommended whenever possible.
right-hand and left-hand designations refer
to the driver’s right or left, as seated in the
vehicle, (i.e.: right-hand refers to the passenger
side of the vehicle, unless noted otherwise.)
the banks motorhome powerpack ® is
de-signed to fit class “a” 460 ford/oshkosh
and John deere engine/chassis combinations.
because of different equipment layouts used
by various coach builders, some accessories
and components may have to be relocated to
accommodate the air intake components of the
banks powerpack ® .
Notification
The Banks Ram-Air Filter comes pre-
oiled and no oiling is necessary for initial
installation. Service the filter as specified
in the Cleaning and Oiling the Banks Ram-
Air Filter Section of this manual.
3.
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facTory exhausT manIfold bolT removal
because of a condition inherent in the factory
design, the exhaust manifolds may crack the man-
ifold-to-head bolts as manifolds undergo changes
in length from expansion and contraction. In some
cases, these forces may also crack the exhaust
bolt bosses on the cylinder head. cracked bolts
will not show any external damage, but bolt heads
may break off upon removal.
We recommend that you do the following to
minimize the possibility of broken manifold
bolts.
1.
apply a penetrating oil (such as liquid
Wrench) to the area where each exhaust
manifold bolt enters the cylinder head.
2.
If some bolts turn more easily than others,
remove these bolts first. This may reduce
stress on the tighter bolts.
3.
the use of an impact wrench is
recommended, when available. The
hammering action of the impact tool helps loosen
the bolts better than the steady pull of a wrench
handle.
if a manifold bolt does break off, it may be
removed by one of the following methods.
1.
if there is enough thread remaining on the
broken bolt to install two nuts, it may be
possible to jam the nuts together to turn the bolt.
Tighten the nuts against each other, then turn the
bolt by turning the inner nut counterclockwise.
2.
if there is some thread protruding from the
head, but not enough to install double nuts,
it may be possible to grip the bolt with a tool such
as a vise-grip pliers.
3.
if the bolt has broken off near or below the
flange surface of the head, it may be drilled
and removed with a screw extractor, such as and
easy-out. make sure you drill the pilot hole in the
center of the broken bolt with the proper size drill
for the extractor used. If the hole is not on center,
it may cause the extractor to bite into the threads
in the head, preventing the extractor from turning.