GSW Electric Water Heate - Manual (Page 4)

3
ANODE INSPECTION / CHANGE
1. Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “OFF”.
2. Close the cold inlet supply valve.
3. Open a hot water tap supplied by the heater. (CAUTION: Water will be
hot).
4. See ‘Draining Tank’ section to remove enough water to empty the piping
system.
5. Using a 1 1 /
16
" socket, remove anode and inspect or replace as required.
6. To refill the heater, see ‘Filling Tank’ section.
WARNING Operating a water heater without an actively working
anode rod will void the warranty.
TANK CLEAN-OUT
1. A clean-out opening is provided on certain models for periodic cleaning
of the tank. Power supply must be shut off and the heater drained before
opening the clean-out.
2. To clean heater through the clean-out opening, proceed as follows:
a) Remove outer door from side of the casing.
b) Peel back the insulation covering the clean-out flange.
c) Remove the six (6) hex head screws securing the tank clean-out plate
and remove the plate.
d) Remove lime, scale or sediment using care not to damage the glass lining
of the tank.
e) Inspect the clean-out gasket, if it shows signs of wear, a new gasket is
required.
f) Install the clean-out plate. Be sure to draw plate up tight by tightening
screws securely.
g) Position the insulation, and replace the door.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING
Follow the preceding instructions carefully and your heater should provide
long and trouble free service. If problems do arise however, the following will
be of assistance.
NOT ENOUGH OR NO HOT WATER
1. Make sure the electrical supply to the water heater is “ON”.
2. Check for loose or blown fuses and loose connections in the water heater
circuit.
3. If the water was too hot and is now cold, the high limit temperature switch
may have operated. To reset this, proceed as follows:
a) Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “OFF”.
b) Remove the access door then turn back the insulation.
c) Reset the control by pushing in the red button marked ‘RESET’.
d) Repack the insulation then replace access door.
e) Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “ON”.
4. The capacity of the tank may have been exceeded by large demands of hot
water. Wait at least one hour then check for hot water at normal hot water
faucet.
5. The incoming cold water may be colder because it is winter. If so, it will
take longer to heat the water.
6. If none of the above result in adequate hot water, call a service person.
7. If there is no HOT water, check the upper element.
8. If there is limited HOT water, check the lower element.
9. If water is LUKEWARM check for proper incoming voltage.
WATER LEAKAGE IS SUSPECTED
1. Check all pipes and fittings for leaks, including the drain valve, element(s)
and relief valve.
2. See if the apparent leakage might be condensation. In warm or humid
locations, condensation can accumulate and run from the heater and
piping.
3. If leakage is from the relief valve discharge pipe, it may represent a
normal condition. Call a service person to check the valve carefully.
4. If you cannot identify or correct the source of leakage:
a) Turn off electrical supply to he heater.
b) Close the cold water inlet valve to the heater.
c) Open a hot water faucet.
d) Contact a qualified plumber or service person.
WATER IS TOO HOT
Adjust the thermostats to a lower setting. See ‘Temperature Adjustment’
section. It is imperative that the thermostat is flush against the tank. See
‘Thermostat Replacement’ section.
HOT WATER ODOUR
On occasion, and depending on your location, hot water may develop a
strong odour. This can be especially problematic in regions where the water
contains some sulphur, which results in hot water having a “rotten egg”
smell. If this occurs, drain the system completely, flush thoroughly and
refill. If the problem persists, the anode rod may need to be changed from
magnesium to one made of aluminum. In certain cases chlorinating and
flushing of the water heater may be required. Contact your dealer or water
supplier.
DISCOLORED WATER
• Water rich in iron or other minerals can produce red or brown staining.
Heating water generally worsens this situation.
• Black water can be an indication of organic contaminates in the water
supply. This can be problematic in areas where the water is obtained from
surface or contaminated sources. Organic particles can develop bacterial
growth, causing potential health hazards. Contact your water supplier for
proper filtration or water conditioning equipment. For bacterial problems
contact your local health authority. Also see ‘Hot Water Odour’ section.
• A sudden appearance of rusty water can indicate the anode rod has been
depleted. The remaining steel core wire may be corroding, releasing iron
particles into the water. Inspect and replace as necessary. Also see
‘Cathodic Protection: Anode Maintenance’ section.
WATER HEATER MAKES NOISE
Sediment, sand or scale can accumulate resulting in “rumbling” or a
“hissing” noise. Water heaters need to be flushed regularly to minimize
buildup. Severe accumulations can cause premature failure of the water
heater elements.
EXTENDED NON USE SERVICE
CAUTION Hydrogen gas is produced in a hot water system served by this
heater that has not been used for a long period of time (generally two (2)
weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable. To reduce the risk
of injury under these conditions, it is recommended that the hot water faucet
be opened for several minutes at the kitchen sink before using any electrical
appliance connected to the hot water system. Use caution in opening
faucets. When hydrogen is present, there will probably be an unusual sound
such as air escaping through the pipe as the water begins to flow. There
should be no smoking or open flame near the faucet at the time it is open.