Power Stop EVOLUTION - Manual

The installation guide is for reference only. Please refer to the vehicle’s
service manual or professional installer for complete instructions.
Front Brake Pad
InstallatIon GuIde
Ninety percent of the brake pad changes
you make during the life of your vehicle
will be to the front brakes because they do
60% to 70% of the braking. On most cars,
you can look through the openings on the
outside of the wheel/rim assembly to see
the pads. On some vehicles, you may have
to remove the wheel to see the pads. Look
at it from above or the side. The pad will be pressed against the shiny metal rotor. The
best way to inspect a pad is through visu-
al inspection. If the pad depth is less than
3/16 inch, plan on replacing it soon. If it’s
less than 1/8 inch, you should change the
brakes immediately.
You can also tell if the brakes should be
replaced if you hear noise from the wear
sensor on the pad. However, some parts do not have wear sensor clips, i.e. noisemaking
clips that are mounted on the brake pad to
tell you when the pads need to be changed.
If you hear a screeching sound when you
apply the brakes, then you are due for a
brake change. (If the sound is more like a
metal rasp or grinding sound, then you’ve
already damaged your rotors and need to
fix the brakes immediately.)
STEP ONE: Have the following parts available before you start the brake change: 1) Power Stop brake pads
such as the Evolution ceramic pads, 2) Power Stop cross-drilled or slotted rotors, 3) a bottle of DOT 3 or 4 brake
fluid as recommended by your owner’s manual, 4) brake pad grease 5) a c-clamp. You should also have a car
jack and jack stands.
STEP TWO: Block the rear wheels so the car won’t roll once you jack it up. Put the car in park and set the park-
ing brake firmly.
STEP THREE: Before jacking the car up off the ground, loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break
them free. Work them off just enough until they loosen their resistance and become easy to turn with the tire
iron. Raise the car and support with safe jack stands under flat spots on the frame. Usually the frame support
area is immediately to the rear of the front wheels.
CAUTION: Always use jack stands. Never attempt to work on an elevated vehicle held in place only by a hy-
draulic jack.
STEP FOUR: Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. It is best to work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other
side intact as a point of reference. As a safety precaution, roll the wheel/tire assembly under the front-center of
the car, between the jack stands, and set it down beneath the engine’s K-member. In the event of a faulty jack
stand.
STEP FIVE: Review the brake components. A disc brake assembly is composed of . a caliper, two brake pads,
and a rotor. The caliper works on pressurized brake fluid through a piston in the caliper. The caliper has a fixed
part bolted to the spindle knuckle and a slide part that holds the brake pads. The caliper is mounted with two
bolts. These bolts usually have dust boots. When the brakes are applied, the caliper piston squeezes the pads
against the rotor creating friction.
NOTE: If you are not replacing or turning down the rotor, then install 2 lug nuts backwards to hold the rotor in
place when removing the caliper (fig. 2).
STEP SIX: Remove the two bolts that hold the two parts of the caliper together (fig 3). Gently slide it out and
away from the rotor. Hang the caliper inside the wheel well using a coat hanger, so that the hose is not stressed.
Do not let the caliper dangle from the brake hose line. Inspect the inside of the caliper and remove the brake
pads. Remove the two remaining bolts that hold the caliper slide to the knuckle. Use a wire brush to clean rust
from the rails where the pad contacts the caliper.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
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