Full Throttle Can-Am 007-1011 - Manual (Page 2)

6) It is now time to tap the hole you just drilled. It is CRITICALLY IMPORTANT that you are patient with this step of the process. If you are too
aggressive in your tapping, you will either break the tap or gall the threads which will require replacement of a $100 part. We recommend
that you cut no more than 1/2 turn maximum at a time, and be sure to use plenty of WD-40 or other light oil throughout the tapping proce-
dure. After each 1/2 turn, completely remove the tap and clean the threads. Plan on this process taking AT LEAST 15-20 minutes. If you
happen to break your tap inside the throttle assembly, you were too aggressive and will need to call your dealer to order a replacement.
7) Continue tapping approximately 3/4”, or until the tap contacts the above-mentioned internal steel screw.
8) Remove tap and clean newly cut threaded hole with compressed air and/or WD-40.
9) Thread the 10/24 allen bolt first through a stainless washer, then through the stainless adapter plate, and then into the threaded hole you just
tapped (we suggest using 2 drops of BLUE loctite on the threads before final assembly). The bent tab on the adapter plate should be posi-
tioned so that it engages the throttle arm when pulled by the GOLDFINGER left throttle (SEE PHOTO B2).
10) Carefully tighten the stainless allen bolt until it is snug, then back off the tension approximately 1/4 to 1/’2 turn or until the stainless adapter
can turn freely. This will allow your GOLDFINGER to operate independently from the factory throttle.
11) Reattach the throttle cable to the eye on the internal pivot arm, then by threading it into the housing until snug.
12) Replace internal rubber seal, then reattach lower throttle block assembly using the three 4mm allen bolts.
13) Tighten the set nut on the throttle cable housing.
C) Routing of Cable Shroud From Left Throttle to Right-Side Cable Attachment (See PHOTO C1 & C2)
(CAUTION: Your kit contains a 24” black cable housing. This cable housing MUST BE TRIMMED to the appropriate length after trial installation
for safe and proper operation.)
1)
In order to protect your cable from the many hazards of off-road use, you will need to route your left-throttle-to-right-throttle cable shroud
underneath the handlebar mud shroud (on models so equipped). Depending on the model, you will need to remove either the speedometer
housing assembly or the handlebar mud shroud, then replace after cable installation.
2) Route cable housing along handlebars and secure firmly to handlebars using supplied zip ties as shown in PHOTO C1 (try to avoid any
sharp bends which will increase cable friction). Pull the zip ties snug, but not so tight as to kink the cable, then cut off the excess length from
each zip tie.
3) Insert the bare end of the stainless cable into the left end of the black cable housing and push all the way through until it comes out the other
end.
4) Insert the “hammerhead” cable end into the slot in the left throttle lever.
5) Insert the bare end of the stainless cable through the hole in the rounded end of the adapter plate’s barrel bolt (you may need to loosen the
allen bolt slightly to allow the cable to pass through the hole). It is very important that the cable follow as straight a line as possible to the
right side in order to reduce kinks or binding, which may cause friction.
6) With the left throttle in the fully-closed position, check to make sure chrome-capped cable housing end is pushed all the way into the left-
throttle assembly. Next, measure 1 ¼” to the LEFT from the rounded end of the barrel bolt and make a mark on the black cable housing.
7) Before trimming cable housing, you MUST slide the stainless cable far enough into the housing so you don’t cut through the cable itself.
Use a sharp pair of diagonal cutters (dikes) to cut the cable housing. After trimming cable shroud, inspect end for any burrs or obstructions
which might need further trimming.
8) Lightly crimp the shiny chrome cable end included in your kit on to the cut end of the cable housing (regular pliers work nicely).
9) Now, push stainless cable back through the cable housing, making sure the cable slides smoothly in and out of housing. (It may be neces-
sary to lightly ream the cut end with a drill bit slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the cable housing.)
10) Next, run the bare end of the cable through the large end of the rubber accordion boot, and pull the boot up until it slides on to the chrome
cable housing end see PHOTO C2.
11) Insert stainless cable through hole in the rounded end of barrel bolt. For now, leave excess cable hanging out of the end of the barrel bolt,
and do not tighten the barrel bolt allen screw yet.
12) Replace the handlebar mud shroud assembly.
B1 B2
C1 C2