Wright Serial # 27543 and Higher - Manual (Page 15)

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three settings up or down 0.75” each in a 1.5”
total range.
a. Use the highest holes in tractor frame
for cutting heights of 1.75”-3.0”.
b. Use the middle holes in tractor frame
for cutting heights of 2.5”-3.75”, factory
setting.
c. Use the lowest holes in tractor frame
for cutting heights of 3.25”-4.5”.
Adjust the front caster arms at their respective
support brackets equally in one of the
seven settings up or down 0.25” each
through a 1.5” total range.
a. This should be done with two shims (or
spacers) on the bottom and one shim
on the top of the caster support arm.
b. The front-to-rear leveling of the blades
should be between level (preferred) to
.25” lower at the front of the blades but
never higher at the front.
c. Use the lowest holes in tractor frame
for heights of 3.25”-4.5”.
• Temporary Height-of-Cut Adjustment: Using
the caster shims (or spacers) you can adjust
the blades downward temporarily .5” or 1”
below the original coarse setting as described
above. This assumes that the blades are level
with two shims (or spacers) on the bottom and
one shim on the top of the caster support arm.
With the blades level at this assumed starting
point, you should never move all of the shims
to the bottom since that would make the
blades higher at the front.
The angle of attack of the blades should
always be level or lower at the front. This
makes the blade cut the grass only once
and saves fuel and wear on the whole
mower. It also allows more efficient
mowing and grass catching or dispersal. If
you mow in an area of the country where
the lawn is very thick and spongy you may
have to set these two adjustments as they
would appear on the grass and not on a
hard surface due to the tires “floating” up
on or “sinking” down into the lawn.
• Fine Adjustment: Adjust the blades equally in
five settings up or down 0.25” each in a 1.25”
total range. The shims on the blade bolts are
moved from under the spindle to the top of the
spindle. If possible, leave at least one shim at
the top and the bottom of the spindle shaft.
Using the maximums and minimums of these
methods gives you a total range of 2.75” from
1.75” to 4.5” in eleven distinct settings. The
factory setting is 3” when measured to a hard
floor surface at the front of the deck.
Belt Tension Adjustment
The pump drive belt is self-adjusting, and normally
requires no adjustment, just replacement. It is
spring loaded to prevent strain on the pump
bearings.
Moving the Mower with the Engine Off
Rotate both of the manual bypass valve levers on
the top of each hydraulic pump about ½ turn
counterclockwise. This will release the pressure in
the pumps and allow the mower to more easily be
pushed or moved. Release parking brake to move
mower. Tighten the valves again before starting
the mower again. (Do not over tighten)
Bleeding Air from the Hydraulic System
Check (and fill if necessary) hydraulic fluid level.
The level should be about 1”-2” below the top of
the oil reservoir. Use fully synthetic oil: Mobil-1
15W-50. Whenever servicing the hydraulic
system, it is of the utmost importance to keep any
dirt or debris from getting into the system. Clean
off all parts before disassembly and assembly.
Due to the effects air has on efficiency in
hydrostatic drive applications, it is critical that air is
purged from the system.
These purge procedures should be implemented
anytime a hydrostatic system has been opened to
facilitate maintenance or any additional oil has
been added to the system.
Air creates inefficiency because it has
compression and expansion rates that are higher
than that of oil.
Entrained air in the oil may cause the following
symptoms:
• Noisy
operation
• Lack of power or drive after short-term
operation
• High operation temperature and excessive
expansion of oil.
Before starting, make sure the reservoir is at the
proper oil level. If it is not, fill to the vehicle
manufacturer’s specifications.