Superior BC36MH - Manual (Page 6)

6
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS ARE NOT TO SCALE.
REFRActoRiEs
All fireboxes contain a furnace refractory floor,
sides and back. These refractories are reinforced
with steel, but can be broken by improper use.
Dropping logs on the bottom refractory and
building fires directly against the refractories
can cause premature burnout of these com-
ponents. It may easily be repaired or replaced
at costs far below repair and maintenance for
masonry fireplaces.
Proper care and “burn-in” of the firebox will
prolong the period of enjoyment without
extensive maintenance. For the first few uses,
build small fires – not roaring infernos. The
materials used in the refractories contain and
absorb moisture. It is important to “cure” the
refractories by building only modest fires. Under
normal usage, it is expected that hairline cracks
will appear in the refractory surface. These
hairline cracks do not affect the safe operation
of the fireplace.
Refractories should be replaced when:
. The crack opens more than 1/4" (19 mm).
2. Pitting in the surface is extensive and pits
become deeper than 3/16" (4.76 mm).
3. Any piece of refractory larger than 2" (51
mm) in radius and 3/16" deep becomes
dislodged.
If conditions 1, 2 or 3 occur, the refractory
should be replaced.
MAiNtENANcE GuidELiNEs
Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble-free
with minimum maintenance. However, like any
fine appliance, it deserves and requires some
housekeeping attention.
Your fireplace will perform better – and certainly
look more attractive to family and friends – if
it is cleaned before each use. Before the first
seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire
in Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace
system carefully. We recommend at least two
complete fireplace inspections a year.
Before Each use
. Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some
owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate
the cold refractory below the grate which
helps fire starting.
• This fireplace has a factory supplied grate
attached, it is permissible to remove the
grate for cleaning; however, the grate must
be re-attached to the fireplace before the
next burn.
2. Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus-
tion air flows freely.
3. Spot check the brick-like refractory for small
cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly.
When it cools, it contracts.
twice a Year check-up
Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your
fireplace following this list:
. Inspect the opening in your chimney top
and remove any debris that could clog it.
The cap is usually held in place by four (4)
screws, which remove easily for checking
or cleaning the full length of the flue from
above. Remove the chimney top while wear-
ing gloves to guard against any sharp metal
edges.
2. Inspect the entire flue from the top down for
obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc.
This may be done by using a flexible handled
chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney
contains offset/return elbows; a soft brush
cleaning from the top down to any elbow and
then from the firebox up to the offset/return
section is the proper method. The beam
from a powerful flashlight will help in this
inspection.
3. Look up from inside the fireplace (damper
open) to see any obstructions in the lower
flue area. If present, shut the damper and
glass doors (if installed) to seal the firebox
and contain any soot that might fall.
• If your do not have glass doors installed, a
damp sheet covering the fireplace opening
and sealed with masking tape will do. Then
clean the flue from the top down (if an offset
system, clean per Step 2) using a proper size
chimney brush with flexible pole sections.
Don’t open the doors or remove the sheet
until all soot has settled. Vacuum, don’t
sweep.
4. Check the metal flashing and seals around
your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose
nailhead openings to prevent roof leaks.
5. Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft
brush or equivalent.
cREosotE FoRMAtioN ANd REMoVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar
and other organic vapors, which combine
with expelled moisture to form creosote. The
creosote vapors condense in the relatively
cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As
a result, creosote residue accumulates on the
flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes
an extremely hot fire.
The chimney should be inspected at least twice
yearly during the heating season to determine
if a creosote build-up has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be
removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemi-
cal chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot
fire. The chemical cleaners can be dangerous
and generally only work on the flue section
nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue
unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean
the flue as previously described or have the
chimney professionally cleaned by a qualified
chimney sweep.
WARNiNG
continued overfiring can perma-
nently damage your fireplace
system. some examples of
overfiring are:
• Burning quantities of scrap
lumber, pine branches, paper or
cardboard boxes which exceed
the volume of the normal log
fire.
• Burning trash, chemicals or
chemically treated combus-
tibles.