Deckorators Aluminum 8 Railing - Manual (Page 2)

Step 5 Trim 4x4 post sleeves to length. Post sleeves should be a minimum of 1-1/2" longer
than the overall railing height
(Figure 4a and 4b). Allow an additional 1-1/2" in your calcu-
lation if installing the optional cap rail. Example: For a 36" high railing, trim post sleeve to a
minimum of 37-1/2" (39" with cap rail). Post sleeve can be left longer if desired.
Some wood preservatives may cause an undesirable reaction when directly in contact
with aluminum. The inside of the post sleeve includes a liner to prevent direct contact with
treated structural posts. If your decking is pressure-treated, place shims under the post
sleeve or run a bead of caulk along the bottom edge of the post prior to installing the post
sleeve. This will keep the aluminum from direct contact with the treated decking and will be
concealed by the post base trim. Slide a trimmed post sleeve over each 4x4 railing post.
Slide a post base trim over each post sleeve. Add a bead of caulk to the underside of the
post base trim when using treated decking.
Step 6 Measure the distance between installed post sleeves to determine the length of
the top and bottom rails
(Figure 1). The distance between the post and first baluster
should be less than 4" and equal on both ends (Figure 4a and 4b). Remove an
additional 1/4" on both ends (1/2" overall) for the bracket to fit between the rail and post.
Trim the top and bottom rails to length.
Angle adaptor wedges are available for 22.5˚ and 45˚ rail angles. Important: the holes in
the angle adaptor wedges line up with the stair rail connectors (sold separately). If install-
ing a 22.5˚ angle railing, attach the stair connectors and wedges centered on the posts. If
installing a 45˚ angle railing, attach the 45˚ adaptor wedges centered on the posts. Attach
stair connectors to the 45˚ using the provided screws.
Measure the distance between the installed angle connectors to determine the length of
the top and bottom rails. Cut the top and bottom rails to length.
Step 7 Determine the spacing of the balusters.
Classic, Estate and Twist balusters: The rails are pre-drilled with the proper spacing.
Attach baluster connectors to the top and bottom rails. Do not over-tighten screws.
Apply silicone caulk on each connector to prevent balusters from turning or rattling after
installation is complete. The caulk should be on the outside of the round connector, and
on the inside of the designer baluster connectors.
Ellipse balusters: Both top and bottom rails will be installed with the pre-drilled holes
facing down to prevent water from collecting in the rail. 4-1/4" on-center and equal
spacing for the end spacing. Start by finding the center of the rail. Rail length ÷ 2 = center
of rail. Mark every 4-1/4" from the center line to each end. This will leave the end spacing
4" or less on both ends and require 24 Ellipse balusters. Attach connectors to both rails
on marked locations.
Traditional, Baroque and Arc balusters: Both top and bottom rails will be installed with
the pre-drilled holes facing down to prevent water from collecting in the rail. Maximum
4-1/2" on-center and equal spacing for the end spacing. Start by finding the center of the
rail. Rail length ÷ 2 = center of rail. Start the first aluminum balusters 2-1/4" on-center each
side of the center line. Mark every 4-1/2" from these lines to each end. This will leave the
end spacing less than 4" on both ends and require 20 aluminum balusters
(Figure 5). Tip:
Use a piece of 2x4 (3-1/2" actual) as a spacer block for the spacing between balusters.
Glass balusters: Both top and bottom rails will be installed with the pre-drilled holes fac-
ing down to prevent water from collecting in the rail. 7-1/2" on-center and equal spacing
for the end spacing. Start by finding the center of the rail. Rail length ÷ 2 = center of rail.
Start the first glass baluster 2-1/4" on-center of each side of the center line. Mark every
7-1/2" from the center line to each end. This will leave the end spacing 4" or less on both
ends and require 12 glass balusters. If installing using connectors, attach connectors to
both rails on marked locations. Tip: If face-mounting to rail, use a piece of 2x4 (3-1/2"
actual) as a spacer block for the spacing between balusters (Figure 5).
Step 8 Position the bottom rail between posts and center. Check building code
Spacing of 3" is recommended, but can be more or less if codes allow
(Figure 4a and 4b).
Mark the location of the bracket on both posts. Remove rail. Mark the screw locations and
pre-drill through the post sleeve only, using a 1/4" drill bit. Attach each bracket to the post
with two 2" long screws.
Step 9 A support block is needed at the center of each rail. Cut the support block to
the proper height. Attach to the bottom of the lower rail
(refer to Figure 1). Find the
center of the rail and pre-drill using a 1/8" drill bit. Attach the support block connector
using the included screw. Mark the location of the support block on the deck surface and
attach the other support block connector to the deck using the included screw. Install the
bottom rail between the posts. Using the brackets as a guide, pre-drill each screw hole
using a 1/8" drill bit and attach each end to brackets using two 1" long screws. Tip: Use a
driver extension bit to avoid marring the rail or post sleeve with the drill chuck.
Step 10 Figure 4a and 4b illustrate how a 36" high railing might be sized. If you want to
have your railing at a different height, use Figure 4a and 4b as planning tools to determine
the height to cut the post sleeves and support blocks. Note: Use a fixture to ensure a
consistent length (+/- 1/16").
36- 1 /
2
" Rail
Height
38"
Post
Sleeve
Height
(Rail
Height
plus 1- 1 /
2
")
32" Baluster
Height
1- 1 /
2
"
Cap Rail
Figure 4a
37- 1 /
2
" Rail
Height
39"
Post
Sleeve
Height
(Rail
Height
plus 1- 1 /
2
")
26" Baluster
Height
1- 1 /
2
"
Cap Rail
Figure 4b
Figure 4c